This post has already been read 67 times!
Creating clothes that fit well and make you feel fabulous can be challenging, especially when you wear plus sizes. Many off-the-rack clothes simply don’t offer the right fit, leaving you feeling uncomfortable or underdressed. That’s where sewing for plus sizes comes in. With the right patterns and a few expert tips, you can craft clothing that not only fits perfectly but also highlights your best features.
Understanding Your Body Shape
Before diving into specific patterns, it’s essential to understand your body shape. Plus sizes come in various forms—apple, pear, hourglass, or rectangle—each with unique characteristics. Knowing your shape helps you choose patterns that accentuate your strengths while providing comfort.
For instance, if you have an apple shape, you might carry more weight around your midsection. Patterns that draw attention to your shoulders or legs can balance your figure. On the other hand, if you’re pear-shaped with wider hips, patterns that emphasize the upper body can create a more balanced silhouette.
Choosing the Right Fabric
Fabric choice is crucial when sewing for plus sizes. Some fabrics cling to the body, highlighting areas you might prefer to downplay. Others drape beautifully, creating a smooth, flattering silhouette.
For curves, opt for fabrics with a bit of stretch, such as jersey, ponte, or spandex blends. These materials move with you and provide comfort without losing shape. Additionally, fabrics like cotton and linen, while less stretchy, offer breathability and structure, which can be beneficial depending on the garment.
Tip: Avoid fabrics that are too stiff or too flimsy. Stiff fabrics can make garments look boxy, while flimsy fabrics may not provide enough support.
Flattering Patterns for Plus Sizes
Not all patterns are created equal, especially when it comes to plus sizes. The right pattern can make all the difference between a garment that feels awkward and one that feels like a second skin.
Wrap Dresses and Tops: Wrap styles are universally flattering, especially for plus sizes. They accentuate the waist, create a balanced silhouette, and provide an adjustable fit. If you’re pear-shaped, a wrap dress with an A-line skirt can be incredibly flattering.
A-Line Skirts: A-line skirts are a staple for plus-size sewing. They flare out from the waist, offering plenty of room for hips and thighs, creating a balanced look. Pairing an A-line skirt with a fitted top can highlight your waist while providing comfort.
Fit and Flare Dresses: Fit and flare dresses are another excellent option for plus sizes. They hug the waist and flare out at the hips, creating an hourglass silhouette. This style is perfect for those with a pear or hourglass shape.
Maxi Dresses: Maxi dresses are comfortable and versatile. Look for styles with a defined waist and a slight flare to avoid looking boxy. Vertical patterns or solid colors can elongate your figure.
Empire Waist Dresses: Empire waistlines sit just below the bust, drawing attention to the upper body and away from the midsection. This style is especially flattering for apple shapes.
Pants with a Contoured Waistband: When it comes to pants, a contoured waistband can make a significant difference. It provides a better fit by following the natural curve of your waist, eliminating gaps and ensuring comfort.
Peplum Tops: Peplum tops add a flirty flare at the waist, which can help balance out wider hips or a fuller midsection. This style works well with pencil skirts or fitted pants.
Customizing Patterns for a Perfect Fit
One of the best things about sewing for plus sizes is the ability to customize patterns to your specific measurements. Even if you choose a pattern designed for plus sizes, it’s essential to make adjustments to ensure the best fit.
1. Full Bust Adjustment (FBA): Many patterns are designed for a B cup size, which may not be sufficient for plus sizes. A Full Bust Adjustment allows you to increase the bust area without altering the rest of the pattern, ensuring a better fit.
2. Grading Between Sizes: If your measurements fall between sizes, grading can help. For example, if you’re a size 18 at the bust but a 22 at the hips, you can blend the pattern lines between these sizes, creating a custom fit.
3. Length Adjustments: Plus sizes often require adjustments to length, whether it’s adding length to a dress or shortening the rise on pants. Take the time to measure and adjust patterns before cutting your fabric.
4. Adding Darts: Darts are a great way to add shape to your garments. If a pattern doesn’t include darts but you find the garment is too loose in certain areas, consider adding them to create a more tailored fit.
Tips for a Flattering Finish
The final touches of your garment can make a significant difference in how it looks and feels. Here are some tips to ensure a flattering finish:
Seam Placement: Pay attention to where seams fall on your body. Seams that run vertically can elongate your figure, while horizontal seams can create a wider appearance. Consider your body shape and the effect you want to achieve when placing seams.
Hemline Choices: The length of your garment’s hemline can impact its overall look. For skirts and dresses, a hemline that falls just below the knee or at the ankle is often the most flattering for plus sizes.
Necklines: The right neckline can draw attention to your best features. V-necks and scoop necks are particularly flattering, as they elongate the neck and create a balanced look. If you prefer a higher neckline, consider adding a statement necklace to draw the eye upwards.
Use of Prints and Patterns: Large prints can overwhelm a plus-size frame, while small prints may not have enough impact. Opt for medium-sized prints or patterns that create a vertical line, such as stripes, to elongate your figure. Be mindful of pattern placement to avoid drawing attention to areas you’d rather downplay.
A friend once shared how she struggled to find a store-bought dress for a wedding. Everything she tried felt either too tight in some areas or too loose in others. After deciding to sew her dress, she chose a wrap pattern with a beautiful floral print and customized it to fit her shape. The result was a dress that not only looked stunning but also gave her the confidence to enjoy the event without worrying about her outfit.
Building Confidence Through Sewing
Sewing for plus sizes isn’t just about creating clothes that fit; it’s about building confidence. When you wear something that feels comfortable and looks great, it can change how you see yourself. The process of choosing fabrics, customizing patterns, and sewing garments to your exact specifications is empowering. You’re not just following a pattern—you’re crafting something unique to you.
Many plus-size individuals feel frustrated with the limited options available in stores. But sewing opens up a world of possibilities. You can experiment with different styles, try out bold prints, and create a wardrobe that reflects your personality. Plus, the skills you develop along the way can be incredibly rewarding.
Share Your Creations!
Sewing for plus sizes is a journey of creativity and self-expression. We’d love to hear about your experiences! Have you found a pattern that works wonders for your shape? Or perhaps you’ve discovered a fabric that drapes beautifully? Share your sewing stories in the comments below, and let’s inspire each other to keep crafting fabulous, flattering garments!
